Polymaker PolyBox 3D Printer Filament Storage Box, Filament Holder, Spool Holder, Keeping Filaments Dry during the Printing


PolyBoxTM is a filament storage box that allows you to store your materials in their optimum printing environment while still being able to print with them. PolyBoxTM features a thermo-hygrometer to monitor your filaments inside the box. The humidity is regulated by large desiccant bags which absorb moisture from the air inside the PolyBoxTM, specifically designed for hygroscopic materials such as PolySmoothTM, PVA or Nylon. The PolyBoxTM can house two 1kg spools simultaneously or one 3kg spool and is compatible with both 1.75mm and 2.85mm filament diameters.


Color: Black

Desiccant type: Silica gel

Desiccant specifications: 4*Desiccant sachets 100g

Supported filament spools: 2 spools ≤ 1kg or 1 spool 3kg

Humidity range : 10-99%

Accuracy : ±5%

Resolution: 1%

Response: 10 seconds

Temperature range: -50~70 °C

Accuracy: ±1 °C

Battery specifications: LR44*1

Product size: 315(L)*190(W)*310(H)

Package sizes: 196(L)*320(W)*320(H)

Product weight (without desiccants and wires)s: 1.150kgs

Package weight: 1.700kgs

About Polymaker

Polymaker is a ISO9001:2008 certified, 3D printing innovation company dedicated to enabling a better future with 3D printing. We achieve this goal by integrating advanced materials, additive manufacturing technologies, and design to meet the needs of today’s industries and consumers.

Product Features

  • Multiple Materials: : PolyBox can print with two 1kg spools simultaneously perfectly suited to dual extrusion printing or use one 3kg spool for longer prints or industrial users. Cut the 150cm filament guide tube to suit your setup.
  • Built in Thermo-Hygrometer:PolyBox includes a built in high precision thermo-hygrometer to allow the user to monitor the humidity and temperature inside the PolyBox. The humidity can be maintained below 15% to prevent filament moisture absorption.

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Printr Eases Dual Extrusion, Keeping the Process Clean & Efficient with 'Donut Wipe Towers'

printrDual extrusion has the potential to offer double the fun of single extrusion in 3D printing — but anyone who’s tried it can also attest that there’s also the potential for double the headaches. Often, in order to avoid common problems including color blending and blemishes and to encourage a clean print, users turn to ‘wipe towers’, where filament can be wiped off from the extruder in order to forestall accidental color blending or other messy issues. This hasn’t been a perfect solution — and it hasn’t been universal. Now, though, Amsterdam-based Printr is offering a new technology that can clean up prints using dual extrusion.

Their solution seems to be as intuitive to use as its name is fun to say, as Printr calls its solution a ‘Donut wipe tower’. While many wipe towers in use from other slicers are solid, Printr’s solution is, just as it sounds, donut-shaped. That is, a hollow structure, which is faster and more efficient to produce while still wiping excess filament from the extruder. Printr’s Formide platform, which integrates its Katana cloud slicing software, is said to be the first to enable this particular structure, which Printr assures us leads to “exceptionally clean dual prints.”


“Due to its shape, the Donut wipe tower is much more efficient in time and material. As the extruder skips the middle part of the wipe tower and only prints the outline of the donut, it does not use as much filament compared to a regular wipe tower and thus, saves printing time. As the Donut wipe tower has a bigger base on the print bed, it is also much more stable than regular wipe towers and is thus less likely to accidentally tip over during printing,” the company explains in its latest press release.

dual_extrusionPrintr’s Donut wipe tower is additionally set to allow for additional customization and optimization in prints. Aware of the fact that extruders can begin to release filament prior to hitting the target temperature and beginning to print, Printr took inspiration from BCN’s Independent Dual Extruder (IDEX) trays for material leakage, ensuring that the Donut wipe tower’s hollow part is the setting for extruders to heat up — any filament released thus stays off the print bed and away from the desired print, keeping any unexpected messes in the Donut wipe tower. Further keeping the print bed safe from stray filament, the Donut wipe towers are designed to use a wider base than many users may have seen before. No tipping over here!

Settings for the Donut wipe tower — such as infill percentage — can also be user-specified, based on time and material considerations. Additionally, if a user is printing with two not-totally-compatible materials (Printr gives the example of PVA and PLA), two separate wipe towers can be set down, keeping each tower dedicated to one material.

On top of the user-generated settings, Katana is, as Printr reminds us, “designed to be smart” and so it will detect “whether the 3D model requires a complete wipe tower at the whole model or just part of it.”

“For example,” the company states, if you have a dual extrusion model and only need to print the bottom 40% of the model in dual colors, Katana will automatically detect this and stop the Donut wipe tower after the dual colored part has been printed. Moreover, if a 3D model contains a single color at the bottom and dual colors at the top, Katana will also automatically detect this and create the bottom of the wipe tower in a single color. This way no unnecessary extruder switching, and thus heating, is done.”

Printr has been keeping up with its mission of enhancing the 3D printing process since it was founded in 2014. With The Element, Katana, Formide, and now the Donut Wipe Towers, this Dutch company has certainly been busy ensuring that those at any stage of expertise in 3D printing have the tools they need to design and print successfully.

The company has also been working on tutorials, such as this one, to introduce users just getting started on their first print job. Discuss further in the Printr Cleans Up 3D Printing with Dual Extruders forum over at 3DPB.com.

[All images supplied to 3DPrint.com by Printr]

3D Printing Tips and Tricks: Keeping Your Electronics Cool

Keeping the parts in your 3D Printer cool


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The electronics that control a 3D printer are not that much different than those that are inside a modern PC, and as such, keeping those components cool is paramount to keeping the 3D printer running efficiently. In this installment of 3D Printing Tips and Tricks, I am going to show you a quick and easy way to keep your printer’s electronics cool.


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Before I begin, I would like to thank Silverstone and Lulzbot for providing the hardware for this installment of 3D Printing Tips and Tricks. Lulzbot donated the printer used in this tutorial, and Silverstone donated the cooling fan. I have uploaded the design file for the mount used in this tutorial to my Thingiverse profile for anyone interested in printing it themselves.


Parts Needed


  • One 80mm PC Fan
  • One Custom Mounting Bracket


Tools Needed


  • One Phillips Screwdriver


Before we begin, let’s take a moment to discuss what components get the hottest and what happens when your 3D printer’s electronics overheat. Most of the 3D printers on the market today run a version of the RAMPS electronics, but a few run custom solutions such as RAMBO or SANGUINOLOLU boards. Depending on your printer’s age and manufacturer, it could be running one of about 30 different controller boards, but fortunately, all of these boards have one piece of hardware in common. I am talking about the stepper motor driver chips, and these little black squares are the culprit of most of the heat produced on the board.


If the stepper motor drivers are not kept within their operating temperature range, they can cause missed steps, dodgy movement, or even burn out altogether. For boards such as RAMPS, this is not a major issue as replacing the burnt out driver is cheap and easy. For other boards, it could mean replacing the entire piece of hardware. This is why cooling is so important on every board.


Take for example the AO-100 from Lulzbot. In my opinion, this printer is one of the best ever made (after some tweaking), but its RAMPS electronics are only passively cooled. With the massive ball of wires covering the top of the board, hardly any ambient airflow makes it to the driver chips. To combat this, I have designed an easy-to-print fan mount that utilizes a common 80mm PC fan as the cooling solution. The video below showcases this mount being printed on my new Lulzbot Taz 3.



I printed the fan mount at about 80mm/sec, which seems to be the perfect balance between perfect layers and speed for my Taz 3. Unfortunately, I still need to dial in the retraction settings as I did notice a few blobs occurring during the print. The screw holes were right on their specified dimensions, though, which means that the Taz 3 is dialed in very well.


With the fan’s mount now printed, we can get started mounting it to the fan and then mounting the assembly to the AO-100’s chassis. To do this, I will utilize one of the AO-100’s existing screws. The fan I am using is the Suscool 81 from Silverstone Technology. The fan includes a thermal probe that adjusts the fan’s speed based on temperature. I am going to be placing this probe on top of one of the driver chips.


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First, we simply need to mount the fan to the mount using the supplied mounting screws. This can be a little tricky as the fan screws will need to cut threads into the fan’s housing. Take this step slowly and use a properly sized screwdriver to avoid damage to the screw heads.


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With the fan and the mount now one solid piece, let’s unscrew one of the wire hold-down screws and add in the mounting bracket for the fan. This turned out to be a good spot to mate the mount to the chassis, but if you happen to have some spare t-slot nuts around, it may be better to attach the mount to the printer’s chassis.


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With everything wired up, we connect the fan to the 12V line leading into RAMPS from the PSU. This causes the fan to run anytime power is connected to the printer, but I find this not to be an issue since I always turn the surge protector the PSU is connected to off when I am finished printing. There are a few other options for connecting the fan, but this would require a lower voltage fan and some custom G-Code. If there is enough demand, I will write a separate tutorial on that later.


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With the fan now installed, overheating issues will be a thing of the past. While your 3D printer may never actually overheat without a cooling fan, having one installed gives you peace of mind that everything will stay within its operating temperature. I recently had a print go bad that caused the X-Axis to bind. This caused the stepper motor to stall, and the result was a burnt out Pololu stepper driver. I had a few extra on hand, but it still caused unnecessary downtime.


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For those of you who are worried about additional noise, the Suscool 81 only emits about 18db at 60C, and just over 19db at full speed. In my testing, this fan is inaudible over the printer’s ambient noise during printing. Silverstone’s Suscool line of PC fans is one of the quietest PC fan lines on the market today, and I use them exclusively in my file server because of this.


During the next installment of 3D Printing Tips and Tricks, we are going to talk about portable tool kits and what are the necessities when you want to take your 3D printer on the road. I have perfected this kit over the past several months while moving my AO-100 to my Makerspace and back every weekend. Stay tuned for that and much more here at TweakTown!